2-Wheel Drive Leaf Spring Front Suspension
Introduction
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1997-98 F-Super Duty chassis/cab front
suspension |
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to enlarge
The F-Super Duty chassis/cab utilizes leaf springs attached to a
solid, I-beam type front axle. The springs are mounted on the axle with U-bolts
and attached to the frame side rails by a fixed bracket at the rear and moveable
shackles at the front.
The F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis utilize
leaf springs attached to a solid, I-beam type front axle. The springs are
mounted on the axle with U-bolts and attached to the frame side rails by a fixed
bracket at the front and moveable shackles at the rear.
Chassis/cab models also utilize a tracking bar between the left
side of the No.1 crossmember and the right side of the axle beam, inboard of the
right spring pad.
Leaf Springs
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1997-98 F-Super Duty
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Front spring and shock absorber installation for
F-Super Duty chassis/cab |
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Front spring and shock absorber installation for
F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor home chassis
models |
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Front stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty
stripped chassis or motor home chassis |
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to enlarge
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands with the tires still
touching the ground.
- Using jacks, take up the weight of the axle, off the U-bolts.
- Disconnect the lower end of each shock absorber.
- Disconnect the spring from the front bracket or shackle.
- Disconnect the spring from the rear bracket or shackle.
- Remove the U-bolt nuts.
- Remove the U-bolts.
- Disconnect the jack bracket or stabilizer bar as necessary.
- Lower the axle slightly and remove the spring. Take note of the position
of the spring spacer.
To install
- Position the spring on its seat on the axle and raise it to align the
front of the spring with the bracket or shackle.
- Coat the bushing with silicone grease.
- Carefully guide the attaching bolt through the bracket or shackle, and the
bushing.
- Install the nut and, depending on model or which bolts you removed, torque
it to:
- chassis/cab spring-to-shackle: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm)
- chassis/cab shackle-to-frame: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm)
- stripped chassis or motor home chassis spring-to-bracket: 148-207 ft. lbs.
(200-281 Nm)
- In a similar fashion, attach the rear of the spring. The torques are:
- chassis/cab spring-to-bracket: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm)
- stripped chassis or motor home chassis spring-to-shackle or
shackle-to-bracket: 74-110 ft. lbs. (100-149 Nm)
- Position the spacer on the spring.
- Install the U-bolts. Install the jack bracket or stabilizer bar bracket on
the forward U-bolt. Install the U-bolt nuts. Tighten the nuts, evenly and in
gradual increments, in a crisscross fashion, to:
- chassis/cab: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm)
- stripped chassis and motor home chassis: 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm)
- Connect the shock absorbers. Tighten them to:
- chassis/cab models, shock absorber-to-bracket nuts to 52-74 ft. lbs.
(71-100 Nm).
- stripped chassis or motor home chassis models, lower attaching bolt to
220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm)
Shock Absorbers
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1997-98 F-Super Duty chassis/cab front
suspension |
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to enlarge
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Front spring and shock absorber installation for
F-Super Duty chassis/cab |
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to enlarge
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Front spring and shock absorber installation for
F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor home chassis
models |
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to enlarge
TESTING
Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring
suspension.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Remove the nut and bolt which retains the shock to the upper bracket.
- Remove the nut (chassis/cab) or nut and bolt (stripped chassis and motor
home chassis) that retains the lower end of the shock at the spring.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. It's a good idea to lubricate the
bushings with silicone grease prior to installation. Tighten the fasteners as
follows:
- chassis/cab upper and lower: 52-74 ft. lbs. (71-100 Nm)
- stripped cab and motor home chassis upper and lower: 220-300 ft. lbs.
(298-407 Nm)
Spindle
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1997-98 F-Super Duty
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Front wheel spindle installation for F-Super Duty
chassis/cab models |
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Front wheel spindle installation for F-Super Duty
stripped chassis or motor home chassis models |
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Top spindle bushings
replacement |
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- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the wheels.
- Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see Section
9).
- Remove the hub and rotor assembly (see Section 9).
- Remove the inner bearing and seal. Discard the seal.
- Remove the dust shield.
- Remove the cotter pin and nut, and, using a ball joint separator—the
forcing screw type, not the fork type—disconnect the tie rod end from the
spindle arm.
- On stripped chassis and motor home models, disconnect the drag link from
the steering arm using a forcing type ball joint separator.
- Remove the nut and washer from the spindle bolt lock pin and remove the
lock pin.
- Remove the upper and lower spindle pin plugs.
- Using a brass drift, drive out the spindle pin from the top and remove the
spindle and thrust bearing.
- Remove the thrust bearing and seal.
To install:
- Clean the spindle pin bore and make sure it is free of corrosion, nicks or
burrs. Light corrosion and other irregularities can be removed.
- Lightly coat the bore with lithium based grease meeting ESA-M1C75-B
rating.
- Install a new spindle pin seal with the metal side facing up into the
spindle. Gently press the seal into position being careful to avoid distorting
it.
- Install a new thrust bearing with the lip flange facing downward. Press
the bearing in until firmly seated against the surface of the spindle.
- Lightly coat the bushing surface with lithium based grease and place the
spindle on the axle.
- Hold the spindle, with the thrust bearing in place, tightly against the
axle, and measure the space between the axle and spindle at the top of the
axle. Determine what thickness of shims is necessary to eliminate all play.
Install the shims, available from the dealer.
- One end of the spindle pin is stamped with a T. Install the spindle
pin, from the top, with the T at the top and the notch aligned with the
lock pin hole.
- Install the lock pin with the threads forward and the wedge groove facing
the spindle pin notch. Drive the lock pin in all the way and install the nut.
Tighten the nut to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
- Install the spindle pin plugs. Tighten them to 35-50 ft. lbs. (47-68 Nm).
- Lubricate the spindle pin through the fittings until grease seeps past the
upper seal and the thrust bearing slip joint at the bottom. If grease can't be
forced past these points, the installation was probably done incorrectly and
will have to be disassembled and re-assembled.
- Install the dust shield.
- Clean, pack and install the bearings. Install a new seal.
- Install the hub and rotor assembly.
- Install the caliper.
- Connect the tie rod end and, if necessary, the drag link. Tighten the nuts
to 50-70 ft. lbs. (68-95 Nm). Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin
holes. NEVER back them off! Always use new cotter pins!
- Install the wheels.
BRONZE SPINDLE BUSHING REPLACEMENT
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Bearing seal installation on F-Super
Duty |
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Solid front axle spindle bushing
installation |
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Spindle bushing replacement tools for solid front
axles |
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Bottom spindle bushing
replacement |
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Reaming the bushings |
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- Remove the spindle and secure it in a bench vise.
- The bushings have an inside diameter of 1.301-1.302 in. (33.05-33.07mm).
Use the following tools or their equivalents:
- Reamer T88T-3110-BH
- Bushing Remover/Installer T88T-3110-AH
- Driver Handle T80T-4000-W—One side of the Remover/Installer is marked with
a T ; the other side with a B. The T side is used on the
top bushing; the B side is for the bottom bushing.
- Remove and discard the seal from the upper bushing bore.
- Working on the upper bushing first, install the driver handle through the
bottom bore. Position a new bushing on the T side of the tool. The
bushing must be positioned so that the open end grooves will face outward when
installed. Position the bushing and tool over the old bushing, insert the
handle and drive out the old bushing while driving in the new bushing.
Continue driving until the tool is fully seated. The new bushing should then
be seated at the proper depth of 0.08 in. (2.03mm) minimum from the bottom of
the upper spindle boss.
- Working on the bottom bushing, position the driver handle through the top
bushing bore. Position a new bushing on the B side of the tool. The
bushing must be positioned so that the open end grooves will face outward when
installed. Position the bushing and tool over the old bushing, insert the
handle and drive out the old bushing while driving in the new bushing.
Continue driving until the tool is fully seated. The new bushing should then
be seated at the proper depth of 0.13 in. (3.3mm) minimum from the top of the
lower spindle boss.
- Ream the new bushings to 0.001-0.003 in. (0.025-0.076mm) larger than the
diameter of the new spindle pin. Ream the top bushing first. Install the
smaller diameter of the reamer through the top bore and into the bottom bore
until the threads are in position is the top bushing. Ream the bushing until
the threads exit the top bushing. Ream the bottom bushing. The larger diameter
portion of the tool will act as a pilot in the top bushing to properly ream
the bottom bushing.
- Remove the tool and thoroughly clean all metal shavings from the bushings
and surrounding parts. Coat the bushings and spindle pins with grease meeting
specification ESA-M1C75-B.
- Install a new seal on the Remover/Installer on the T side. Using
the handle, push the seal into position in the bottom of the top bore.
Stabilizer Bar
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1997-98 F-Super Duty Chassis/Cab
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Front stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty
chassis/cab |
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to enlarge
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Disconnect each end of the bar from the links.
- Disconnect the bar from the axle.
- Unbolt and remove the links from the frame.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace any worn or cracked rubber
parts. Install the bar loosely and make sure it is centered between the leaf
springs. Make sure the insulators are seated in the retainers. When everything
is in proper order, tighten the stabilizer bar-to-axle mounting bolts to 35-50
ft. lbs. (47-68 Nm). Tighten the end link-to-frame bolts to 52-74 ft. lbs.
(71-100 Nm). Tighten the bar-to-end link nuts to 15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm).
1997-98 F-Super Duty Stripped Chassis or Motor Home Chassis
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Disconnect the stabilizer bar ends from the links attached to the axle.
- Remove the bar-to-frame bolts and remove the bar.
- Remove the links from the axle brackets.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace any worn or cracked rubber
parts. Assemble all parts loosely and make sure the assembly is centered on
the frame. make sure that the insulators are seated in the retainers. When
everything is in proper order, tighten the bar-to-frame brackets bolts to
30-47 ft. lbs. (41-64 Nm). Tighten the link-to-axle bracket bolts to 57-81 ft.
lbs. (77-110 Nm). Tighten the bar-to-link nuts to 15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm).
Track Bar
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Chassis/Cab Models
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Track bar installation—1997-98 F-Super
Duty |
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- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Unbolt the track bar from the crossmember bracket.
- Unbolt the track bar from the axle bracket.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts at each end to
120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm).
Front Wheel Bearings
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1997-98 F-Super Duty
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel cover. Remove the wheel.
- Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
- Remove the grease cap from the hub. Then, remove the cotter pin, nut lock,
adjusting nut and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing
assembly from the hub.
- Pull the hub and disc assembly off the wheel spindle.
- Remove and discard the old grease retainer. Remove the inner bearing cone
and roller assembly from the hub.
- Clean all grease from the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent.
Inspect the cups for pits, scratches, or excessive wear. If the cups are
damaged, remove them with a drift.
- Clean the inner and outer cone and roller assemblies with solvent and
shake them dry. If the cone and roller assemblies show excessive wear or
damage, replace them with the bearing cups as a unit.
- Clean the spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to thoroughly
remove all old grease.
- Covering the spindle with a clean cloth, brush all loose dirt and dust
from the brake assembly. Remove the cloth carefully so as to not get dirt on
the spindle.
- If the inner and/or outer bearing cups were removed, install the
replacement cups on the hub. Be sure that the cups seat properly in the hub.
- It is imperative that all old grease be removed from the bearings and
surrounding surfaces before repacking. The new lithium-based grease is not
compatible with the sodium base grease used in the past.
- Install the hub and disc on the wheel spindle. To prevent damage to the
grease retainer and spindle threads, keep the hub centered on the spindle.
- Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the flat washer on
the spindle. Install the adjusting nut.
- Adjust the wheel bearings by torquing the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft. lbs.
(23-34 Nm) with the wheel rotating to seat the bearing. Then back off the
adjusting nut 1/2 turn. Retighten the adjusting nut to
10-15 inch lbs. (1-1.7 Nm). Install the lock-nut so that the castellations are
aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin. Bend the ends of the
cotter pin around the castellations of the lock-nut to prevent interference
with the radio static collector in the grease cap. Install the grease cap.
| WARNING |
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New bolts must be used when servicing floating caliper
units. The upper bolt must be tightened first. |
- Install the wheels.
- Install the wheel cover.
Wheel Alignment
Refer to wheel alignment under 2 wheel drive coil spring
suspension.